Becoming a famous fashion blogger is less about peacocking at fashion week than, well, having an actual talent and something new to say.
Bryanboy at the launch of his collection of fur accessories for Adrienne Landau, Tuesday in New York.
Image by Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images
Every fashion week, Jennine Jacob plans the Independent Fashion Bloggers conference. It includes panel discussions and talks with the internet's most successful fashion personalities, and hundreds of unknown fashion bloggers buy tickets to hear their tips on making it big as an online fashion star.
But just four years into the conference, figuring out which bloggers to invite to speak has become a huge challenge. "It's like, I'll get Susie Bubble and Bryanboy and Fashion Toast, and four years later, I'm like, who are we going to bring on that we haven't brought on before?" Jacob said. (Full disclosure: I have spoken at the IFB conference twice.)
Fashion blogging is very much in its infancy, relatively speaking, and even the most successful in the field have all expressed an acute awareness of their uncertain future. Print magazines ruled fashion media for more than a century and are just now taking a backseat to internet coverage. So no one knows where these indie blogs — however popular they are now — will lead or how they will evolve.
When the industry talks about fashion bloggers, they're referring to people with independent sites that create posts about fashion, often not in a purely journalistic context, but by frequently showcasing photos of themselves wearing clothes. A handful of them — the likes of Susie Bubble, Bryan Boy, Fashion Toast, the Man Repeller — have become quite famous, attaining celebrity-like status at fashion week, where they sit front row next to Vogue editors and famous actresses, and draw hordes of street-style photographers wherever they go, as if they're Suri Cruise leaving divorce court.
"I work hard, but I would say I'm really, really lucky. I'm fully aware that all of it can just disappear in a flash," said Susanna Lau, who blogs as Susie Bubble. Though she was quick to add: "I can't see bloggers disappearing completely off the grid unless they themselves disappear. [But] there's no precedent yet."
But for a business that craves and makes significant money on constant newness, surprisingly few new fashion bloggers have managed to become as important as the first generation of breakout personalities. Ask most people front row at fashion week, and while they could probably tell you who they think the next hot designer, model, or photographer will be, they likely couldn't tell you who the next Bryanboy will be. The success stories seem so rare, the market so oversaturated, and the medium's future so uncertain, that you have to wonder: Is it even possible to become the next Bryanboy anymore?
Yes, and no. Major influence like Bryanboy's is theoretically up for anyone's grabs — but it won't be attained in the same way. In this "look at me!" age of social media, a unique willingness to stay behind the scenes seems key as fashion blogs like the Man Repeller offer more and more content more akin to a traditional magazine's. But the majority of people trying to blog their way to the front row probably haven't picked up on that yet.
Leandra "Man Repeller" Medine modeling an outfit on her site.
Via: manrepeller.com
The landscape is completely different from when Susie Bubble and Bryanboy started. To truly break out, the roughly 10 bloggers and blogging experts interviewed for this story agree that people need talents beyond personal-style blogging and the ability to draw the attention of street-style photographers at fashion week. Now the industry and potential followers are hungry for more depth — but finding those flowers amongst the weeds is still incredibly challenging.
"I think it's really, really difficult," Lau said of trying to break into the field now. "I would not want to be a blogger starting out today. I really don't think I would have done it actually, having known there are so many."
When Lau started her blog Style Bubble in 2006, fashion bloggers weren't a thing in the industry — or at fashion week — at all, really. But she's gone on to appear in countless fashion magazines and fashion sites, as well as accrue hundreds of thousands of followers. "I've gone to these conferences and panels," Lau said, "and they ask the same questions: How do you get a following? And the truth is, I have no idea."
She said "it must be possible" to become the next her, "but I think it's getting more difficult, and perhaps there are people starting to blog for the wrong reasons" — meaning, the freebies, the money, and the fabulous life, as opposed to an innate love of fashion and the internet.
The lifestyle of Lau and her peers, like Bryanboy, does seem appealing; the most successful fashion personalities land lucrative deals to promote brands and appear in ad campaigns, get paid to wear certain labels' clothes to fashion week, and get flown around the world — from Paris to Sao Paolo to Hong Kong — to cover parties and shows. And they get tons of attention for their fabulous outfits every time they show up somewhere.
The brands themselves get instant exposure to a large fashion-savvy audience. Lau gets 30,000 visitors a day to her blog and has 183,000 followers on Twitter. She and her peers also cover the fashion world from a fan's perspective, meaning brands don't worry about them publishing a negative review, the way a critic might (especially if one of them has been paid to make an appearance). They also give brands something print fashion magazines can't: a direct view into how fans react to their products. And still, a lot of brands are working with bloggers without understanding the benefit of the alliance, while others have decided working with certain bloggers provides no value-add — and would rather spend money on things like custom furniture for a party.
Jacob, the conference organizer, says that when people get into fashion blogging just for the sake of becoming internet celebrities and getting their photos posted online, "it's very obvious." She added, "If your only objective is to be kind of famous, I don't think you're going to have the longevity to make it [to [Bryanboy's] level" — that is, previewing the top designer collections before fashion week and even joining the cast of America's Next Top Model.
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